16952

Albania / North Macedonia: Yearly Vacation - Albania - Mount Korab

Seventeen days, two motorcycles, one destination. For this year's holiday, Nada and I headed to Albania, planning to explore its coastline from north to south before turning towards the mountains and making our way home through some of the country's most scenic landscapes.

The alarm went off long before sunrise. At 5 a.m., equipped with a headlamp and a warm layer of clothing, I set off from Radomirë towards Mount Korab, the highest mountain in both Albania and North Macedonia. While the village was still asleep, I began searching for the correct trail in the darkness. Fortunately, once I found it, navigation became straightforward.

Rather than taking the shortest route, I chose a longer and more scenic approach. Before long, I was joined by an unexpected hiking companion: a limping local dog who seemed determined to accompany me all the way to the summit. Together, we made steady progress through the quiet mountain landscape. In the cold morning air there was no sign of other hikers, only the crunch of footsteps and the occasional sound of wildlife waking up.

As the first rays of sunlight reached the surrounding peaks, the views became increasingly impressive. Shortly below the summit, the trail crossed into North Macedonia, following the border ridge towards the highest point. Roughly four hours after leaving Radomirë, I reached the summit of Mount Korab.

The weather could hardly have been better. Visibility extended across countless mountain ranges in both countries, providing some of the finest views of the entire trip. I spent plenty of time taking photographs, admired the panorama, and even managed to find the summit geocache before beginning the descent. My four-legged companion, who had accompanied me the entire way, was still by my side as we headed back towards the valley.

On the way down, the mountains slowly became busier. A few hikers appeared on the trail, and several herds of goats provided additional company as we descended through the high pastures back towards Radomirë.

While I was busy climbing Albania's highest mountain, Nada enjoyed a much more relaxed start to the day. By the time I returned from the summit, she had already packed her belongings, mounted her motorcycle and set off towards our next destination. For the remainder of the day, we would each ride our own route, with me gradually trying to catch up.

Soon I climbed back onto Blue Horse and headed north. The road first led through Kukës, where the confluence of the Black Drin and White Drin rivers provided another interesting stop. From there, the route continued through the mountains towards Krumë, where I paused for a well-deserved lunch.

The final destination for the day was the famous Valbona Valley. By late afternoon I reached Valbonë, where Nada had already arrived. After the obligatory reunion beer, we continued along a gravel road towards our accommodation in the small hamlet of Kukaj. There, surrounded by the spectacular peaks of the Albanian Alps, we finally met up with the rest of the CHERA Hiking group.

It had been a day of contrasts: a solitary sunrise ascent of Albania's highest mountain, a loyal canine hiking partner, hundreds of kilometres of riding through northern Albania and, finally, a reunion with friends in one of the country's most beautiful mountain valleys.

Previous days of Albania Moto trip 2025: Day 11 - 16951, Day 10 - 16950, Day 9 - 16949, Day 8 - 16948, Day 7 - 16947, Day 6 - 16946, Day 5 - 16945, Day 4 - 16944, Day 3 - 16943, Day 2 - 16942, Day 1 - 16941.

After an hour on the trail, the first light of day finally appeared above the mountains.

Not a soul in sight, just a peaceful mountain morning.

We started as strangers and finished as hiking companions, sharing both the trail and my packed lunch from the hotel.

A frozen pond was all the proof we needed that the morning in the Korab Mountains was genuinely cold.

Mount Korab (Albanian: Maja e Korabit or Mali i Korabit; Macedonian: Голем Кораб / Golem Korab), rising to 2764 metres, is the highest peak of both Albania and North Macedonia. The summit forms part of the border between the two countries and ranks among the highest mountains of the Balkan Peninsula.

Korab means "ship" in Macedonian.

The first rays of sunlight had already reached the highest peaks, while the valley below was still cold and shadowed.

The rugged peaks of the Korab range rise between the valleys of the Black Drin and Radika, forming the natural border between Albania and North Macedonia.

The Korab range contains more than a dozen peaks above 2500 metres, making it one of the highest and most rugged mountain regions in the Balkans.

In clear weather and with good trail markings, navigation was pleasantly straightforward.

Geographically, the Korab mountain range extends 40 km.

Despite its elevation, the upper slopes of Mount Korab contain surprisingly broad high-altitude meadows shaped by ancient glaciers.

Recent snowfall had left a surprising amount of snow on the upper slopes of Mount Korab.

Panorama from the border between Albania and North Macedonia.

A thick layer of fog filled the Macedonian valleys while the highest peaks remained in the sunshine.

Looking across a landscape filled with future adventures.

The climb had been long, and even my loyal hiking partner appreciated a short break beneath the summit.

Unlike Mont Blanc, whose summit is claimed by both France and Italy, the summit of Mount Korab clearly marks the border between Albania and North Macedonia.

Four hours after leaving Radomirë, I finally reached the summit of Mount Korab. Time for the obligatory selfie.

View to Albania and Radomirë.

From the summit of Korab, the mountains seem to continue all the way to the horizon.

Standing on Mount Korab, you are on one of the most isolated major summits in the Balkans. The nearest higher peak lies over 230 kilometres away in Bulgaria, Bayuvi Dupki, 2824 m.

One last look towards North Macedonia before beginning the descent.

Looking back at the morning's achievement while enjoying the much milder temperatures in the valley.

The Korab Mountains are home to brown bears, wolves and even the critically endangered Balkan lynx, although meeting any of them is far less likely than meeting a friendly mountain dog.

Long before hikers arrived, these slopes belonged to shepherds and their goats.

One last greeting to the local goats before the trail finally delivered me back to Radomirë after a 20 km day on the mountain - Garmin Connect.

Near Kukës, the Black Drin and White Drin rivers merge to form the Drin, Albania's longest river. The confluence now lies within the vast Fierza Reservoir, created by the construction of the hydroelectric dam. Water levels were noticeably low during our October visit, revealing large stretches of shoreline normally hidden beneath the lake.

After crossing the White Drin, the road continues through the mountains towards Valbonë Valley in the heart of the Albanian Alps.

The White Drin carries an average of around 66 cubic metres of water per second before joining the Black Drin near Kukës.

The confluence. The hydroelectric dam produces around 1.3 TWh of electricity annually, making it one of Albania's most important energy facilities. Installed power is 500 MW.

My lunch on the suburbs of Krumë.

A well-deserved beer after a long day of hiking and riding.

Deep in the heart of the Accursed Mountains (Prokletije).

An evening with the Chera Hiking team.

Day 12: From Radomirë to Valbonë - 189 km.

Geocache found:

- Korab, GC2EZVX, that received a visit by trackable items "Second Angel of peace", TBA8B55 and "Twin Star", TB33TN8

#vacation #Balkan #motorcycle #geocaching #hiking

16951

Albania: Yearly Vacation - Albania - Passing Lake Ohrid

Seventeen days, two motorcycles, one destination. For this year's holiday, Nada and I headed to Albania, planning to explore its coastline from north to south before turning towards the mountains and making our way home through some of the country's most scenic landscapes.

After packing our luggage in the morning, we climbed back onto the motorcycles and set off into a chilly autumn day. At an elevation of around 850 metres above sea level, Korçë can be surprisingly cold in the morning, even after the warmth of the Albanian coast.

We had barely left the city before making our first stop at Kisha e Shën Dëllisë (Orthodox Church of Saint Elijah), a small church overlooking the surrounding countryside. The peaceful setting and morning light made it well worth the short detour.

From there, we continued towards Lake Ohrid and the lakeside city of Pogradec. Reaching Pogradec, we rode straight through the town and climbed to Maja e Kalasë (898 m), where the ruins of an ancient fortress overlook Lake Ohrid and the surrounding landscape.

We continued to the picturesque village of Lin, located on a small peninsula extending into Lake Ohrid. After driving through the village, we picked up some food, parked the motorcycles and walked down to the lakeshore. With one of Europe's oldest lakes stretching out before us, it was the perfect place to enjoy a simple lunch and a short break before continuing our journey.

Back on the motorcycles, we continued north. Freshly paved roads and light traffic made for enjoyable riding, but after a few more hours in the saddle, our energy levels began to fade once again. A lunch stop in Peshkopi provided the perfect excuse to rest, refuel and prepare for the final part of the day's journey.

The road ahead had generated plenty of discussion during our planning. Depending on the source, we could expect anything from a rough gravel track to a well-maintained mountain road. Fortunately, reality exceeded expectations. Instead of the feared washboard surfaces and dust, we found a surprisingly good road winding through the mountains.

As the afternoon progressed, the scenery became increasingly remote and spectacular. Eventually, we arrived in Radomirë, a small mountain village best known as one of the main starting points for excursions to Mount Korab, the highest mountain in both Albania and North Macedonia.

Previous days of Albania Moto trip 2025: Day 10 - 16950, Day 9 - 16949, Day 8 - 16948, Day 7 - 16947, Day 6 - 16946, Day 5 - 16945, Day 4 - 16944, Day 3 - 16943, Day 2 - 16942, Day 1 - 16941.

The Church of Saint Elijah stands on Shëndëlli Hill above Korçë. The present stone church was built in 1937-1938 and survived Albania's anti-religious campaign of 1967, when it was converted into a pensioners' club instead of being demolished. It returned to religious use in 1991 as communism came to an end.

  

A brief stop, two candles and a moment of peace inside the Church of Saint Elijah - Kisha e Profetit Ilia.

 

Above Pogradec, we rode to Maja e Kalasë, where the panorama of Lake Ohrid opened up before us. The hill was once the site of an ancient fortified settlement and Pogradec Castle, strategically positioned to control the surrounding area and the lakeshore below. Today, only fragments of the old walls remain, together with a monument that crowns the summit and overlooks both the city and one of Europe's oldest lakes.

At an estimated 1.3 to 2 million years old, Lake Ohrid is hundreds of times older than most European lakes, many of which were formed only after the last Ice Age.

 

Finding Lake Ohrid was easy. Finding a grocery store or something to eat turned out to be slightly more challenging.

 

Making our way through the narrow streets of Lin, where the locals were busy solving the world's problems.

 

Mission accomplished: food acquired. The search for the perfect lakeside picnic spot could now begin.

 

The Lin peninsula has been inhabited for at least 8500 years. Recent archaeological discoveries revealed the remains of a prehistoric pile-dwelling settlement dating back to around 6000 BC, making it one of the oldest known lakeside settlements in Europe.

Following a path marked on the map, which supposedly led to the shore of Lake Ohrid.

Lake Ohrid covers 358 km², reaches a depth of 288 metres and contains around 55 km³ of water, making it one of Europe's most remarkable lakes.

A small ladybird, a little good luck and many kilometres still ahead of us.

Finally, we reached the shores of Lake Ohrid. Of its 87.5 km shoreline, approximately two-thirds belong to North Macedonia, while the remaining third lies in Albania.

The food disappeared almost as quickly as we unpacked it.

 

On the way back to Lin, we picked up an unexpected travelling companion.

Dating back to the 6th century, the ruins of the Early Christian Basilica of Lin still contain remarkable mosaic floors overlooking Lake Ohrid.

Blue Horse and Thunder patiently waiting for the next stage of the journey - Garmin Connect.

More than 200 species found in Lake Ohrid live nowhere else on Earth. The lake contains around 55 km³ of water, which is renewed remarkably slowly, taking approximately 70 years for a complete turnover. Its exceptionally clear waters can offer underwater visibility of more than 20 metres under favourable conditions.

Back on the motorcycles, riding through the sparsely populated eastern regions of Albania.

Nothing brightens a motorcyclist's day quite like a newly surfaced mountain road.

Northbound through the mountains of eastern Albania.

The scenery may have changed, but the wilderness continued.

 

After several hours on the road, a traditional Albanian lunch in Peshkopi was exactly what we needed before continuing towards the mountains.

Below, the Black Drin continues its journey from Lake Ohrid towards its confluence with the White Drin in northern Albania.

View towards Korab mountain range.

Focused.

We had prepared for gravel, but were rewarded with a beautifully paved mountain road instead.

Arriving to Radomirë.

Day 11: From  Korçë to Radomirë - 239 km.

Geocaches found (all received a visit by trackable items "Second Angel of peace", TBA8B55 and "Twin Star", TB33TN8):

- Kisha e Shën Ilia (Saint Elijah’s Church), GC68BV3

- Pogradec's Fortified Past: Castle Cache, GCAE1K5

- Lake Ohrid, GC1E16N

- Eight Boys Challenge, Mystery, GCAECJF, where I spotted the codes of trackable items "South East UK Mega 2024 SEM24 74jen and ECOBAKE TB", TBAWBJQ, "Travel Track Jen's Superlambanana", TB848KW and "Lackey Tag Allybobllyy Lackey Tag", TBAHVBW

#vacation #Balkan #motorcycle #geocaching