Tuši

Tuši's blog

Saturday, October 04, 2025

16942

Croatia / Bosnia and Hercegovina / Montenegro: Yearly Vacation - Albania - Along the Adriatic Coast with a Detour Through Herzegovina and the Montenegrin Highlands


Seventeen days, two motorcycles, one destination. For this year's holiday, Nada and I headed to Albania, planning to explore its coastline from north to south before turning towards the mountains and making our way home through some of the country's most scenic landscapes.

On the second day, I was still travelling alone and spent almost the entire day in the saddle of my Blue Horse. Shortly after seven in the morning, I left Posedarje and continued south along the Adriatic Highway. For the first time, I crossed the impressive Pelješac Bridge before turning inland near Slano and crossing the border into Bosnia and Herzegovina.

From there, I followed the route of the former narrow-gauge railway once travelled by the legendary Ćiro train. The road led through the rugged landscapes of Herzegovina to Trebinje, where I took some time to visit Hercegovačka Gračanica, a Serbian Orthodox monastery perched on Crkvina Hill above the town. Besides its distinctive architecture, the site offers magnificent views over Trebinje and the surrounding countryside.

After the visit, I continued towards Montenegro. The road carried me past Nikšić and Podgorica, offering a full day of enjoyable riding through the varied landscapes of Montenegro before eventually reaching the Adriatic coast once again. I ended the day in the seaside town of Sutomore, where I checked into my accommodation and prepared for the next stage of the journey towards Albania.

Previous day of Albania Moto trip 2025: Day 1 - 16941.

Quick stop for geocache in Duće.

Time to eat something.

View to Pelješac.

Crkva svetog Ante Padovanskog / Church of Saint Anthony of Padua.

Blue Horse.

The Pelješac bridge provides a fixed link from the southeastern Croatian semi-exclave to the rest of the country while bypassing Bosnia and Herzegovina's short coastal strip at Neum. The bridge spans the sea channel between Komarna on the northern mainland and the peninsula of Pelješac, thereby passing entirely through Croatian territory and avoiding any border crossings with Bosnia and Herzegovina at Neum.

 
Sv. Roko church and Slano Bay.

 
Sv. Orsula church and Slano bay.

Entering Bosnia and Herzegovina.

Popovo Polje, shaped by the underground waters of the Trebišnjica River, is one of the largest karst fields in Europe. For centuries, the river disappeared beneath the surface, creating a landscape unlike any other.

Riding along the former route of the legendary Ćiro railway, a narrow-gauge line that once linked Mostar, Čapljina, Trebinje, Dubrovnik, and Zelenika in Montenegro. Opened in 1901, the railway formed part of a network stretching more than 170 km and played a vital role in connecting inland Herzegovina with the Adriatic coast.

 
The Ćiro railway crossed three present-day countries: Bosnia and Herzegovina, Croatia, and Montenegro. Much of its former route has now been transformed into cycling and hiking trails.


Built in 2000 as a replica of Kosovo's Gračanica Monastery, the church has become one of Herzegovina's most recognizable landmarks.

The bell tower standing in front of Hercegovačka Gračanica, surrounded by peaceful gardens.

Trebinje and the historic Arslanagić Bridge spanning the turquoise waters of the Trebišnjica River, viewed from Crkvina Hill.

Built according to the wishes of Jovan Dučić, Hercegovačka Gračanica overlooks Trebinje from the hill where the poet wished to be buried.

Looking west from Crkvina Hill across Trebinje Field, towards the vast karst landscapes that eventually open into Popovo Polje.

The road towards Montenegro winds through the remote karst landscapes of Zaslapnica.

Welcome to Montenegro.

Created by damming the Gračanica River, Slano Lake is one of Montenegro's largest artificial lakes and a prominent feature of the landscape around Nikšić.

Ćevapi, a cold beer, and the Morača River flowing below.

Day 2: From Posedarje to Sutomore - 574 km.

Geocaches found (all received a visit by trackable items "Second Angel of peace", TBA8B55 and "Twin Star", TB33TN8):
- The Duce pine, GC9V2PT
- Crkva svetog Ante Padovanskog, GC8Y83R, where I spotted the code of trackable item "Der hier war Laula Stempel", TB9K9R2
- Virtual Reward 3.0 - Pelješki most, Virtual, GC9P6QC
- A place of silence, GCAWK29
- Admirals View, GC8886C
- Panorama View, GCBCF4Y


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