16946

Albania: Yearly Vacation - Albania - Castles, Mountains and Oil Fields

Seventeen days, two motorcycles, one destination. For this year's holiday, Nada and I headed to Albania, planning to explore its coastline from north to south before turning towards the mountains and making our way home through some of the country's most scenic landscapes.

Having decided to stay in Vlorë for three nights, we set off on a circular ride through southern Albania. Our first destination was Llogara Pass, one of the country's most scenic mountain roads, offering spectacular views of the Albanian Riviera and the Ionian Sea.

From there, we continued to Porto Palermo, where we visited Porto Palermo Castle, a fortress associated with Ali Pasha of Tepelenë and one of the most picturesque historic sites along the coast.

Leaving the sea behind, we turned inland and entered a remote landscape of hills, canyons and sparsely populated villages. We had expected rough roads in this part of the country, but were pleasantly surprised to find excellent riding conditions throughout the day.

Along the way, we stopped at the Memorial of Fallen Soldiers in Progonat and later visited the Aqueduct of Ali Pasha (Ujësjellësi i Ali Pashës), an impressive piece of Ottoman-era engineering built to supply water to the fortress of Tepelenë.

Around lunchtime, we reached Tepelenë, where we took a break and enjoyed a well-deserved meal before continuing our journey north. The final section of the ride followed the valley of the Vjosa River, one of Europe's last great wild rivers, through the hills around Vllahinë. Here, abandoned oil wells, rusting pipelines and forgotten industrial installations provided a reminder of Albania's long history of oil production.

As the afternoon drew to a close, we completed the final kilometres back to our apartment in Vlorë. Another unforgettable day had combined dramatic mountain roads, historic fortresses, Ottoman engineering, wild landscapes and a glimpse into Albania's industrial past.

Previous days of Albania Moto trip 2025: Day 5 - 16945, Day 4 - 16944, Day 3 - 16943, Day 2 - 16942, Day 1 - 16941.

Llogara Pass offers some of the finest views in all of Albania.

Blue Horse and Thunder successfully conquered the 1027 m high pass. Standing on the watershed, water flowing north eventually reaches the Adriatic Sea, while streams on the southern side drain into the Ionian Sea.

A perfect place to stop, take a breath and admire the scenery.

View to Maja Thanasit, 1352 m.

The pass cuts through Llogara National Park, one of Albania's oldest protected areas.

The road will lead us back to the seaside.

Albania's landscape is dotted with bunkers, a legacy of Enver Hoxha's obsession with defending the country from a potential invasion.

The Albanian coastline is changing rapidly, with new tourist developments appearing almost everywhere.

 

After approximately 30 kilometres of twists and turns, we crossed Llogara Pass and once again found ourselves riding alongside the Ionian coast.

Few visitors realize that Porto Palermo is home not only to a historic castle, but also to a secret Cold War naval tunnel hidden beneath the peninsula. Constructed between 1969 and 1988, it was designed to conceal military vessels inside the hillside and remains within a military zone today.

Our next stop, Porto Palermo Castle. Built to control access to the bay, Porto Palermo Castle has watched over these waters for more than two centuries.

The castle is located in the bay of Porto Palermo, west of the road connecting Vlorë and Saranda. The site was originally a small island, which was later connected to the mainland through landfill work.

 

The interior of Porto Palermo Castle is surprisingly simple, reflecting its military purpose rather than luxury.

Unlike many Mediterranean fortresses, Porto Palermo Castle lacks a large central courtyard, reflecting its compact military design and defensive purpose.

Standing on the fortress walls, it is easy to understand the strategic value of Porto Palermo Bay - Garmin Connect.

The coast was now behind us as we made our way into the rugged Albanian highlands.

Kilometres of empty roads and untouched landscapes.

Valley hopping.

A landscape where nature is still very much in control.

Crowned by a red star, the Memorial of Fallen Soldiers in Progonat honours local partisans and soldiers who took part in Albania's resistance and lost their lives during the Second World War.

The mountains around Progonat form part of the Kurvelesh region, an area known for its rugged terrain, traditional villages and long history of resistance against foreign rulers.

Looking into the gorge of Përroi Gurrës, where winter floods and seasonal waters have shaped the landscape for centuries.

Plans for next visit: more hiking.

4 of us.

Looking across the gorge of Përroi Gurrës, I couldn't help but think that an off-road motorcycle might be a better choice for exploring this part of Albania.

Built in the early 19th century, the Aqueduct of Ali Pasha carried water across the valley towards Tepelenë.

The aqueduct's arches remain one of the most recognizable landmarks of the Bënçë valley.

Damaged by an earthquake during the 20th century, it was later restored and remains one of the region's most recognizable landmarks.

 

A local resident keeping watch over the Aqueduct of Ali Pasha - Garmin Connect.

 

By the time we reached Tepelenë, hunger was becoming impossible to ignore.

The final kilometres of the day led us past abandoned oil wells and rusting infrastructure near Vllahinë, reminders of Albania's long history of oil production. The unmistakable smell of crude oil occasionally drifted across the road, leaving no doubt about the area's industrial heritage.

Back in our apartment in Vlorë.

Day 6: From Vlorë to Vlorë - 216 km.

Geocaches found (all received a visit by trackable items "Second Angel of peace", TBA8B55 and "Twin Star", TB33TN8):

- The Way to Llogara-Pass, GC33F3Q

- Porto Palermo Castle, GC7Z1DV

- Ali Pasha Aqueduct, GCA9171

#vacation #Balkan #motorcycle #geocaching