Tuši

Tuši's blog

Sunday, October 05, 2025

16943

Montenegro / Albania: Yearly Vacation - Albania - Vrsuta and Rozafa Castle


Seventeen days, two motorcycles, one destination. For this year's holiday, Nada and I headed to Albania, planning to explore its coastline from north to south before turning towards the mountains and making our way home through some of the country's most scenic landscapes.

On the third day, I woke up early and headed straight into the mountains above Sutomore. My goal was to climb two nearby peaks, Mala Vrsuta and Vrsuta. The trail offered beautiful views over the Adriatic coast, yet I encountered almost no one along the way. Most visitors to Sutomore prefer spending their time on the beach, leaving the surrounding hills pleasantly quiet. Only on the way back towards town did I meet a local woman walking her dog - Garmin Connect.

After returning to the apartment, packing my gear and getting ready for the ride, it was finally time to continue south. My first stop was Ada Bojana, a unique triangular river island formed by the Bojana River at its mouth into the Adriatic Sea. Known for its long sandy beaches, traditional fishing huts and relaxed atmosphere, Ada Bojana is one of Montenegro's most distinctive coastal destinations.

From there, I crossed the border and entered Albania for only the second time in my life (2012 Motorbike Trip - Day 6, Day 7). My route led me to Shkodër, one of the country's oldest and most important cities. Overlooking the city, Lake Shkodër and the surrounding plains stands Rozafa Castle, whose history stretches back more than two thousand years. According to a famous local legend, the fortress walls could only be completed after the sacrifice of Rozafa, a young woman who was immured within them.

After visiting the castle, I continued towards the coast and the village of Talë. Dark clouds had been gathering throughout the afternoon, and I arrived at my accommodation just before the rain began. Later that day, Nada finally caught up with me on her Suzuki after completing her own journey south. Unfortunately, she was not quite as lucky with the weather and got caught in the rain along the way.

With both motorcycles safely parked and another long day behind us, we headed out for an evening walk (Garmin Connect) and dinner. At last, the solo part of the journey was over, and from the next day onwards, Albania would be explored together.

Previous days of Albania Moto trip 2025: Day 2 - 16942, Day 1 - 16941.

Morning view to Sutomore and Velji grad hill.

Early morning in Bar, Montenegro's largest port city on the Adriatic coast.

 
Even in Montenegro, the familiar Slovenian Knafelc waymark guided the route across the mountains.

Vrsuta (left) and Mala Vrsuta (right).

Looking down towards Bar, one of Montenegro's sunniest cities.

When it was under the control of the Republic of Venice from 1420 to 1797, Sutomore was called Spizza (in Venetian).

View from Mala Vrsuta, 885 m, towards North.

View from Mala Vrsuta towards South.

My direction, peak Vrsuta.

Reached the summit of Vrsuta, 1183 m.

Panorama from the summit.

 
Way back.

Lost place.

Ada Bojana, a unique river island formed where the Bojana River meets the Adriatic Sea.

A quiet moment on Ada Bojana, where fishermen still follow the rhythm of the river and the sea.

A reminder that even beautiful natural landscapes are not immune to the problem of pollution.

Traditional fishing huts line the banks of the Bojana River near its journey's end at the Adriatic Sea.

A stop on the way to Albania. The dramatic scenery was familiar for another reason: several Winnetou scenes were filmed on exactly this spot.

Not every roadside stop offered postcard-perfect views. Unfortunately, litter remains a common sight in some places.

 
One last break for burek and a cold Coca-Cola before crossing the border into Albania, the country we had set out to explore.

My first attraction in Albania that I visited was Rozafa castle.

The ancient walls of Rozafa Castle tell a story shaped by Illyrians, Romans, Venetians and Ottomans.

Red represents courage, strength and sacrifice, while the double-headed eagle symbolizes the Albanian people and their struggle for freedom and independence.

The Bojana River, flowing toward the Adriatic.

 
The fortress of Rozafa has guarded the gateway between the Albanian coast and inland Balkans for centuries.

The castle is named after the legendary Rozafa, whose story of sacrifice and keeping one's word remains one of Albania's best-known legends.

From the castle walls, three rivers can be seen converging below before continuing towards the Adriatic Sea.

Rozafa Castle rises high above Shkodër, commanding views over the surrounding plains, rivers and Lake Shkodër.

 
Rozafa Castle has roots dating back to the 4th century BC, when it was an important Illyrian fortified settlement.

Inside the fortress are three main courtyards, with traces of different historical periods and civilizations.

One of Albania's oldest cities, Shkodër has been a crossroads of cultures and civilizations for more than 2000 years. Set between Lake Shkodër, the Buna and Drin rivers, and the mountains, the city has always been closely connected to both nature and trade.

Finishing the walk on the castle - Garmin Connect.

 
Dinner time.

Day 3: From Sutomore to Talë - 173 km.

Geocaches found (all received a visit by trackable items "Second Angel of peace", TBA8B55 and "Twin Star", TB33TN8):
- 1183 m, GCB8FA5
- filmplace Vinnetou - Gornja Klezna, GCAM6Q7
- Rozafa Castle, GC5VV9P


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