Tuši

Tuši's blog

Sunday, October 05, 2025

16943

Montenegro / Albania: Yearly Vacation - Albania - Vrsuta and Rozafa Castle


Seventeen days, two motorcycles, one destination. For this year's holiday, Nada and I headed to Albania, planning to explore its coastline from north to south before turning towards the mountains and making our way home through some of the country's most scenic landscapes.

On the third day, I woke up early and headed straight into the mountains above Sutomore. My goal was to climb two nearby peaks, Mala Vrsuta and Vrsuta. The trail offered beautiful views over the Adriatic coast, yet I encountered almost no one along the way. Most visitors to Sutomore prefer spending their time on the beach, leaving the surrounding hills pleasantly quiet. Only on the way back towards town did I meet a local woman walking her dog - Garmin Connect.

After returning to the apartment, packing my gear and getting ready for the ride, it was finally time to continue south. My first stop was Ada Bojana, a unique triangular river island formed by the Bojana River at its mouth into the Adriatic Sea. Known for its long sandy beaches, traditional fishing huts and relaxed atmosphere, Ada Bojana is one of Montenegro's most distinctive coastal destinations.

From there, I crossed the border and entered Albania for only the second time in my life (2012 Motorbike Trip - Day 6, Day 7). My route led me to Shkodër, one of the country's oldest and most important cities. Overlooking the city, Lake Shkodër and the surrounding plains stands Rozafa Castle, whose history stretches back more than two thousand years. According to a famous local legend, the fortress walls could only be completed after the sacrifice of Rozafa, a young woman who was immured within them.

After visiting the castle, I continued towards the coast and the village of Talë. Dark clouds had been gathering throughout the afternoon, and I arrived at my accommodation just before the rain began. Later that day, Nada finally caught up with me on her Suzuki after completing her own journey south. Unfortunately, she was not quite as lucky with the weather and got caught in the rain along the way.

With both motorcycles safely parked and another long day behind us, we headed out for an evening walk (Garmin Connect) and dinner. At last, the solo part of the journey was over, and from the next day onwards, Albania would be explored together.

Previous days of Albania Moto trip 2025: Day 2 - 16942, Day 1 - 16941.

Morning view to Sutomore and Velji grad hill.

Early morning in Bar, Montenegro's largest port city on the Adriatic coast.

 
Even in Montenegro, the familiar Slovenian Knafelc waymark guided the route across the mountains.

Vrsuta (left) and Mala Vrsuta (right).

Looking down towards Bar, one of Montenegro's sunniest cities.

When it was under the control of the Republic of Venice from 1420 to 1797, Sutomore was called Spizza (in Venetian).

View from Mala Vrsuta, 885 m, towards North.

View from Mala Vrsuta towards South.

My direction, peak Vrsuta.

Reached the summit of Vrsuta, 1183 m.

Panorama from the summit.

 
Way back.

Lost place.

Ada Bojana, a unique river island formed where the Bojana River meets the Adriatic Sea.

A quiet moment on Ada Bojana, where fishermen still follow the rhythm of the river and the sea.

A reminder that even beautiful natural landscapes are not immune to the problem of pollution.

Traditional fishing huts line the banks of the Bojana River near its journey's end at the Adriatic Sea.

A stop on the way to Albania. The dramatic scenery was familiar for another reason: several Winnetou scenes were filmed on exactly this spot.

Not every roadside stop offered postcard-perfect views. Unfortunately, litter remains a common sight in some places.

 
One last break for burek and a cold Coca-Cola before crossing the border into Albania, the country we had set out to explore.

My first attraction in Albania that I visited was Rozafa castle.

The ancient walls of Rozafa Castle tell a story shaped by Illyrians, Romans, Venetians and Ottomans.

Red represents courage, strength and sacrifice, while the double-headed eagle symbolizes the Albanian people and their struggle for freedom and independence.

The Bojana River, flowing toward the Adriatic.

 
The fortress of Rozafa has guarded the gateway between the Albanian coast and inland Balkans for centuries.

The castle is named after the legendary Rozafa, whose story of sacrifice and keeping one's word remains one of Albania's best-known legends.

From the castle walls, three rivers can be seen converging below before continuing towards the Adriatic Sea.

Rozafa Castle rises high above Shkodër, commanding views over the surrounding plains, rivers and Lake Shkodër.

 
Rozafa Castle has roots dating back to the 4th century BC, when it was an important Illyrian fortified settlement.

Inside the fortress are three main courtyards, with traces of different historical periods and civilizations.

One of Albania's oldest cities, Shkodër has been a crossroads of cultures and civilizations for more than 2000 years. Set between Lake Shkodër, the Buna and Drin rivers, and the mountains, the city has always been closely connected to both nature and trade.

Finishing the walk on the castle - Garmin Connect.

 
Dinner time.

Day 3: From Sutomore to Talë - 173 km.

Geocaches found (all received a visit by trackable items "Second Angel of peace", TBA8B55 and "Twin Star", TB33TN8):
- 1183 m, GCB8FA5
- filmplace Vinnetou - Gornja Klezna, GCAM6Q7
- Rozafa Castle, GC5VV9P


Saturday, October 04, 2025

16942

Croatia / Bosnia and Hercegovina / Montenegro: Yearly Vacation - Albania - Along the Adriatic Coast with a Detour Through Herzegovina and the Montenegrin Highlands


Seventeen days, two motorcycles, one destination. For this year's holiday, Nada and I headed to Albania, planning to explore its coastline from north to south before turning towards the mountains and making our way home through some of the country's most scenic landscapes.

On the second day, I was still travelling alone and spent almost the entire day in the saddle of my Blue Horse. Shortly after seven in the morning, I left Posedarje and continued south along the Adriatic Highway. For the first time, I crossed the impressive Pelješac Bridge before turning inland near Slano and crossing the border into Bosnia and Herzegovina.

From there, I followed the route of the former narrow-gauge railway once travelled by the legendary Ćiro train. The road led through the rugged landscapes of Herzegovina to Trebinje, where I took some time to visit Hercegovačka Gračanica, a Serbian Orthodox monastery perched on Crkvina Hill above the town. Besides its distinctive architecture, the site offers magnificent views over Trebinje and the surrounding countryside.

After the visit, I continued towards Montenegro. The road carried me past Nikšić and Podgorica, offering a full day of enjoyable riding through the varied landscapes of Montenegro before eventually reaching the Adriatic coast once again. I ended the day in the seaside town of Sutomore, where I checked into my accommodation and prepared for the next stage of the journey towards Albania.

Previous day of Albania Moto trip 2025: Day 1 - 16941.

Quick stop for geocache in Duće.

Time to eat something.

View to Pelješac.

Crkva svetog Ante Padovanskog / Church of Saint Anthony of Padua.

Blue Horse.

The Pelješac bridge provides a fixed link from the southeastern Croatian semi-exclave to the rest of the country while bypassing Bosnia and Herzegovina's short coastal strip at Neum. The bridge spans the sea channel between Komarna on the northern mainland and the peninsula of Pelješac, thereby passing entirely through Croatian territory and avoiding any border crossings with Bosnia and Herzegovina at Neum.

 
Sv. Roko church and Slano Bay.

 
Sv. Orsula church and Slano bay.

Entering Bosnia and Herzegovina.

Popovo Polje, shaped by the underground waters of the Trebišnjica River, is one of the largest karst fields in Europe. For centuries, the river disappeared beneath the surface, creating a landscape unlike any other.

Riding along the former route of the legendary Ćiro railway, a narrow-gauge line that once linked Mostar, Čapljina, Trebinje, Dubrovnik, and Zelenika in Montenegro. Opened in 1901, the railway formed part of a network stretching more than 170 km and played a vital role in connecting inland Herzegovina with the Adriatic coast.

 
The Ćiro railway crossed three present-day countries: Bosnia and Herzegovina, Croatia, and Montenegro. Much of its former route has now been transformed into cycling and hiking trails.


Built in 2000 as a replica of Kosovo's Gračanica Monastery, the church has become one of Herzegovina's most recognizable landmarks.

The bell tower standing in front of Hercegovačka Gračanica, surrounded by peaceful gardens.

Trebinje and the historic Arslanagić Bridge spanning the turquoise waters of the Trebišnjica River, viewed from Crkvina Hill.

Built according to the wishes of Jovan Dučić, Hercegovačka Gračanica overlooks Trebinje from the hill where the poet wished to be buried.

Looking west from Crkvina Hill across Trebinje Field, towards the vast karst landscapes that eventually open into Popovo Polje.

The road towards Montenegro winds through the remote karst landscapes of Zaslapnica.

Welcome to Montenegro.

Created by damming the Gračanica River, Slano Lake is one of Montenegro's largest artificial lakes and a prominent feature of the landscape around Nikšić.

Ćevapi, a cold beer, and the Morača River flowing below.

Day 2: From Posedarje to Sutomore - 574 km.

Geocaches found (all received a visit by trackable items "Second Angel of peace", TBA8B55 and "Twin Star", TB33TN8):
- The Duce pine, GC9V2PT
- Crkva svetog Ante Padovanskog, GC8Y83R, where I spotted the code of trackable item "Der hier war Laula Stempel", TB9K9R2
- Virtual Reward 3.0 - Pelješki most, Virtual, GC9P6QC
- A place of silence, GCAWK29
- Admirals View, GC8886C
- Panorama View, GCBCF4Y