We started day three of our
Cyprus trip very early, as we had planned a visit to
Northern Cyprus, which involved crossing the
border and arranging
insurance for the car. We were lucky, as everything went smoothly. Soon after, we drove into the rain, and after a while we realized that we had taken the wrong exit at one of the crossroads, which resulted in a small detour before we finally reached our first stop of the day,
Saint Hilarion Castle.
We arrived before opening hours and had to wait for a while, but because of that, the ticket attendant kindly gave us free entry. We explored every path inside the castle, and it was absolutely worth it, with stunning views and a fascinating atmosphere. After that, we continued our journey along the ridge of the
Kyrenia Mountains, where we also visited the highest point of Northern Cyprus,
Mount Selvili (Selvili Tepe). Access here is restricted by the military, similar to
Mount Olympus.
From there, we drove toward the
Cape Kormakitis (Kormakiti), where we spent quite some time driving off-road. Despite the rough terrain, the
Nissan Micra behaved obediently and managed to get us all the way to the very end of the peninsula. We then visited Mavi Köşk (the Blue House), a mysterious former residence known for its unusual architecture and its controversial owner, which adds a somewhat eerie and intriguing feel to the place.
After that, we continued to Girne /
Kyrenia, where we visited the impressive
Kyrenia Castle and enjoyed a walk around the beautiful harbor. We finished the day with dinner before crossing the border again and returning to our temporary home in the Greek part of
Nicosia.
Following the rainbow.
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| December, and the fields are still full of life. |
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| View through our windscreen. |
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| View from the yard in front of the castle. |
Photographing Kyrenia / Κερύνεια / Girne.  |
| The castle is named after St. Hilarion, a hermit monk who fled from persecution in the Holy Land and lived and died in a cave in the mountains. Later in the 10th century, the Byzantines built a church and monastery here. Along with Kantara and Buffavento castles, St. Hilarion was originally built as a watch tower to give warning of approaching pirates who launched a continuous series of raids on Cyprus and the coasts of Anatolia. |
Our Micra was still on the parking lot. Although the monastery and a church were built here originally, the first references to the castle are found in 1191 records. For some time it remained of strategic importance, but later it became the summer resort of the Lusignan nobility. Byzantine columns and faded icons tell stories older than the castle walls. The castle has three parts. The parapets for the defence of the main entrance were fortified by the Byzantines in the 11th century with the lower section of the castle being used for billeting soldiers and their horses. The middle section contained the royal palace, the kitchen, the church and a big cistern. At the entrance to the castle in the upper section, there is a Lusignan Gate with a courtyard in the middle.
I guess this used to be the toilet.
Walking through layers of history.
Timeless stone and mountain air.
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| Girne from another perspective. |
Spending the day with rainbows.
Holding the Danger.
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| Nada and Tuši. |
Every stone tells a story.
Returning back to the entrance gate.
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| Stone stacked toward the sky. |
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| Step into the past. |
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| Goodbye castle. |
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| Near the summit of Mount Selvili (Selvili Tepe), where civilian access still ends. |
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| Red plates - dangerous driver. |
Tarihi Tank - Turkish Tank Monument where we can see the wreck of an American-made M47 Patton tank that was left behind during the 1974 Turkish invasion of Cyprus. During the Battle of Lapta on 2 August 1974, a Turkish armored column was ambushed while trying to break through the mountain pass. Although only lightly damaged by a mine, this particular tank was abandoned and, during a later towing attempt, slid down a slope and became wedged into place. Its tracks remain visible nearby.  |
| Micra performed admirably on bad road. |
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| End of the road with the view to Kormakiti Island, a tiny, rocky islet located off the coast of the Kormakitis Peninsula. |
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| Wind-swept cliffs and a rocky path ahead. |
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| Rock at the end. |
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| Our new pet for the holidays. |
No swimming today.
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| Time to move on, direction East. |
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| Quick snack before we entered Mavi Köşk (The Blue House), one of Northern Cyprus's most intriguing and mysterious attractions. |
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| Morphou (Güzelyurt) Plain where they produce citrus fruits, olives, vegetables, and cereals. |
Entry to the Blue House came on a humble slip from the payment machine, our entrance time scribbled by hand. Inside, photography was off-limits, adding a hint of mystery to every room we explored.
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| Probably the most eccentric sight in Northern Cyprus, Mavi Köşk (Blue House) was supposedly built by Paulo Paolides, lawyer to Archbishop Makarios III. Lavishly fitted out in the retro-tastic style of the day, the rooms (which come in a rainbow of colours, not just blue) are a vision of kitsch tiles, plush mid-century modern details and gaudy features such as an iguana-skin-covered custom-made drinks cabinet. The house sits in a military-controlled area and you'll need your passport to enter. There are plenty of completely uncorroborated rumours about Mavi Köşk, the main one being that Paolides was involved with the Italian mafia, was smuggling guns into Cyprus for the uprising against British rule and the house acted as an ammunition depot. Various stories about secret tunnels under the house and rooms where mafia members once met are also swirled around. Paolides escaped (some say by using a secret tunnel) from the house during the 1974 Turkish invasion and died in 1986. Accordingly, his death is shrouded in myth as well with some saying he was killed during a mafia meeting in Sicily. Whatever the truth, the house is a time capsule of highly kitsch design which would have been the height of chic for its day. |
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| The Northern Cyprus Water Supply Project delivers about 75 million m³ of freshwater annually from Turkey via a 107 km pipeline, including an 80 km undersea section, to the Geçitköy (Dagdere) Dam, which stands 65 m high. |
Entrance ticket and a flyer for the Kyrenia Castle / Κάστρο της Κερύνειας / Girne Kalesi.
Some sections of the castle were used as prisons, and you can still see dungeons, small cells, and chains, giving a glimpse into harsh conditions of the past.
On the castle wall above the harbor.
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| Walking along the ramparts gives panoramic views over the city, harbor, and mountains. |
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| Posing time. |
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| Castle square. |
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| Ship entering the harbor. |
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| Where old meets new. |
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| Thick walls and tourists. |
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| Picturesque harbor. |
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| Sunset. |
Flags almost always come in duels.
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| Selfie time. |
Last photos from the castle.
Direction, Girne harbor.
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| Today, the harbor is famous for its charming stone quays, colorful fishing boats, and luxury yachts. |
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| From Byzantine times to today, the harbor remains the soul of Kyrenia. |
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| Photogenic corners at every turn. |
Bon appétit.
Geocaches found (all received a visit by trackable items "Second Angel of peace",
TBA8B55, "Ojstrica (2350 m) - ti moje kraljestvo / you my kingdom...",
TB8MHFG and "Twin Star",
TB33TN8):
