Tuši

Tuši's blog

Monday, December 23, 2024

16657

Cyprus / Northern Cyprus: Cyprus - Day 4 - Karpas Peninsula, Salamis and Famagusta


On the fourth day of our journey, we once again crossed into the Turkish part of the island of Cyprus, setting off early from Nicosia with a sense of anticipation. Our destination was the remote and unspoiled northeastern tip of the island - the Karpas Peninsula - a place often described as one of Cyprus's last truly wild regions.

The drive itself was an experience, stretching through changing landscapes that gradually became more rugged and untouched. Along the way, we made several short stops to take in the views and enjoy the quiet atmosphere, far removed from the busier parts of the island. As we approached the peninsula, we were greeted by one of its most famous "residents" - the wild donkeys. These gentle animals roam freely and have become a beloved symbol of the region, often approaching visitors with curious, friendly expressions.

At the far end of the peninsula, the scenery turned rugged and rocky, with waves meeting the deep blue Mediterranean. On our way back, we stopped at a few beautiful sandy beaches - a perfect contrast that shows why this area remains so special and unspoiled. Soon, it was time for lunch in the village of Dipkarpaz.

Re-energized, we continued toward one of the island’s most impressive historical sites - the ancient city of Salamis. Once a powerful Greek city-state dating back to around the 11th century BC, Salamis later flourished under Roman rule. Walking among its extensive ruins - grand columns, a partially restored amphitheater, and intricate mosaics - you can almost imagine the vibrant life that once filled this place. It is one of the most significant archaeological sites on the island and offers a fascinating glimpse into Cyprus's layered history.

As the day began to wind down, we headed to Famagusta for an evening stroll. The old town, enclosed by remarkably well-preserved Venetian walls, has a unique atmosphere where history and everyday life blend together. Wandering through its streets as the light softened toward sunset was a perfect way to reflect on the day.

But the journey wasn’t quite over yet. After our walk, we still had the drive back across the island to Nicosia, where we had started that morning. It had been a long day filled with nature, history, and discovery - one of those travel days that leaves you both pleasantly exhausted and deeply satisfied.

Previous days of our vacation to Cyprus: Day 3 - 16656, Day 2 - 16655, Day 1 - 16654.

Alagadi Turtle Beach is a protected turtle nesting site.

 
Every year (roughly May–August), turtles come to lay eggs, so we were a bit late for that.

First selfie of the day.

Another place, still no sign of turtles.

Loggerhead and Green sea turtle nest in this area.

One of the geocaches took us to this viewpoint.

While we drove further to the most northeastern point of Cyprus, we were greeted by donkeys.

Just a quick question: "Do you have something for us?"

 
Along some nice beaches the road took us to the end of Karpas Peninsula, Cape Apostolos Andreas.

 
Looking for a cache, that is hidden somewhere between the rocks.

 
I got a bit of help that led me to find the geocache.

From this point, Syria is only 109 km away.

 
Leaving the rocky promontory of Cape Apostolos Andreas.

Mery enjoys the off road driving.

Rocky coast near the Apostolos Andreas Monastery.

The monastery is dedicated to Saint Andrew and is an important site for the Cypriot Orthodox Church. It was once known as "the Lourdes of Cyprus", served not by an organized community of monks but by a changing group of volunteer priests and laymen. Both Greek Cypriot and Turkish Cypriot communities consider the monastery a holy place.

 
Local resident gave us some advices.

 
The traditional story of the monastery's founding says that, during a journey to the Holy Land, the ship transporting Saint Andrew went off course and struck rocks here. On coming ashore, Andrew hit the rocks with his staff, at which point a spring gushed forth. The waters proved to have healing powers and restored the sight of the ship's captain, who had been blind in one eye. Thereafter, the site became a place of pilgrimage.

The famous wild donkeys in the Karpas Peninsula aren't truly native wild animals - they're feral, meaning they descended from domesticated donkeys that returned to living freely in nature.

Find 50 similarities.

We weren't good tourists, since we didn't gave them any food.

Golden Beach (Altınkum) is one of the most untouched coastlines in the Mediterranean.

Mery and Nissan Micra were once more satisfied with some off road driving.

This Golden beach is sometimes called "the last untouched beach of Cyprus."

 
Local guide wasn't happy with us.

 
Rented car is always a good choice for bad roads.

Even though it was December, the landscape was surprisingly alive. The grass was fresh and green, as if spring had briefly passed through.

 
Time for a beer and lunch in Dipkarpaz / Rizokarpaso.

Eventually, everything ended in our bellies.

Our journey continued on an archaeological note, with a visit to the city of Salamis.

 
Ancient cities can be a window into the past of human society and Salamis serves as a reminder of the great cities that existed in antiquity.

 
Salamis was believed to have been the capital of Cyprus as far back as 1100 BC, in the late Bronze Age.

Standing tall through the centuries - the majestic pillars of the Salamis Gymnasium.

Ο ΜΟΥΦΛΑΝΤΙΟΧΟΥ ΑΜΜΙΑΝΟΥ ΑΛΕΡΙΟΥ ΨΥΧΟΠΑΤΟΣ ΤΗΣ ΒΑΣΙΛΙΚΗΣ - "Of Mouflantiochou Ammianus Alerius, psychopatos (guardian of souls) of the basilica," preserved on the floor tiles.

Subfloor pillars of the Roman hypocaust heating system at the ancient baths.

Late 3rd‑century fresco of Hylas and the water nymphs from the bath complex.

Corinthian capital from an ancient classical structure.

 
A severe earthquake destroyed the city in 76 AD, after which the Gymnasium with its colonnaded Palaestra was built by Trajan and Hadrian.

Walking through the ruins of Salamis' gymnasium, where the past still inspires.

 
The theatre of Salamis lay undiscovered till 1959. At that time, the decision was made to renovate it, so that it could be once again used for theatrical performances, a role which it does to this day, with performers as diverse as Boney M. and Jose Carreras.

The present day ruins date back to around  the time of Augustus (63BC - 14AD), and seems to have been rebuilt around 200AD.

View to the Salamis city from the top of the theatre.

The auditorium originally consisted of 50 rows of seats and held over 15000 spectators.

Walking through the ruins of time.

 
Like many Roman cities, Salamis was organized along a grid plan with a main east-west street (decumanus) and a north-south street (cardo). These roads were paved with large stone slabs and lined with colonnades in some sections.

At its peak, Salamis was home to around 20000–25000 people, making it the largest city on the eastern coast of Cyprus during Roman times.

 
If ruins could talk, Salamis would have a million tales to tell – who knows in time with further studies and excavations, what findings will be revealed.

The Lala Mustafa Pasha Mosque (Turkish: Lala Mustafa Paşa Camii), originally known as the Cathedral of Saint Nicholas and later as the Saint Sophia (Ayasofya) Mosque of Mağusa, is the largest medieval building in Famagusta.

 
Famagusta was founded around 274 BC by Ptolemy II Philadelphus, after Salamis was seriously damaged by an earthquake, and named "Arsinoe" after his sister.

 
Layers of flaky pastry, honey-soaked sweetness, and a sprinkle of crushed nuts - every bite of baklava tells a story of tradition, celebration, and centuries of Mediterranean flavor.

Geocaches found (all received a visit by trackable items "Second Angel of peace", TBA8B55, "Ojstrica (2350 m) - ti moje kraljestvo / you my kingdom...", TB8MHFG and "Twin Star", TB33TN8):
- Turtle Watch 1 - Alagadi. Beach, GC4741M
- Turtle Watch 2 - Alagadi Beach, GC4743N
- HALF WAY THERE, GC8EX8E
- east-end and north-end of Cyprus, GC407EF
- Eeyore, GC8H6WN