16951

Albania: Yearly Vacation - Albania - Passing Lake Ohrid

Seventeen days, two motorcycles, one destination. For this year's holiday, Nada and I headed to Albania, planning to explore its coastline from north to south before turning towards the mountains and making our way home through some of the country's most scenic landscapes.

After packing our luggage in the morning, we climbed back onto the motorcycles and set off into a chilly autumn day. At an elevation of around 850 metres above sea level, Korçë can be surprisingly cold in the morning, even after the warmth of the Albanian coast.

We had barely left the city before making our first stop at Kisha e Shën Dëllisë (Orthodox Church of Saint Elijah), a small church overlooking the surrounding countryside. The peaceful setting and morning light made it well worth the short detour.

From there, we continued towards Lake Ohrid and the lakeside city of Pogradec. Reaching Pogradec, we rode straight through the town and climbed to Maja e Kalasë (898 m), where the ruins of an ancient fortress overlook Lake Ohrid and the surrounding landscape.

We continued to the picturesque village of Lin, located on a small peninsula extending into Lake Ohrid. After driving through the village, we picked up some food, parked the motorcycles and walked down to the lakeshore. With one of Europe's oldest lakes stretching out before us, it was the perfect place to enjoy a simple lunch and a short break before continuing our journey.

Back on the motorcycles, we continued north. Freshly paved roads and light traffic made for enjoyable riding, but after a few more hours in the saddle, our energy levels began to fade once again. A lunch stop in Peshkopi provided the perfect excuse to rest, refuel and prepare for the final part of the day's journey.

The road ahead had generated plenty of discussion during our planning. Depending on the source, we could expect anything from a rough gravel track to a well-maintained mountain road. Fortunately, reality exceeded expectations. Instead of the feared washboard surfaces and dust, we found a surprisingly good road winding through the mountains.

As the afternoon progressed, the scenery became increasingly remote and spectacular. Eventually, we arrived in Radomirë, a small mountain village best known as one of the main starting points for excursions to Mount Korab, the highest mountain in both Albania and North Macedonia.

Previous days of Albania Moto trip 2025: Day 10 - 16950, Day 9 - 16949, Day 8 - 16948, Day 7 - 16947, Day 6 - 16946, Day 5 - 16945, Day 4 - 16944, Day 3 - 16943, Day 2 - 16942, Day 1 - 16941.

The Church of Saint Elijah stands on Shëndëlli Hill above Korçë. The present stone church was built in 1937-1938 and survived Albania's anti-religious campaign of 1967, when it was converted into a pensioners' club instead of being demolished. It returned to religious use in 1991 as communism came to an end.

  

A brief stop, two candles and a moment of peace inside the Church of Saint Elijah - Kisha e Profetit Ilia.

 

Above Pogradec, we rode to Maja e Kalasë, where the panorama of Lake Ohrid opened up before us. The hill was once the site of an ancient fortified settlement and Pogradec Castle, strategically positioned to control the surrounding area and the lakeshore below. Today, only fragments of the old walls remain, together with a monument that crowns the summit and overlooks both the city and one of Europe's oldest lakes.

At an estimated 1.3 to 2 million years old, Lake Ohrid is hundreds of times older than most European lakes, many of which were formed only after the last Ice Age.

 

Finding Lake Ohrid was easy. Finding a grocery store or something to eat turned out to be slightly more challenging.

 

Making our way through the narrow streets of Lin, where the locals were busy solving the world's problems.

 

Mission accomplished: food acquired. The search for the perfect lakeside picnic spot could now begin.

 

The Lin peninsula has been inhabited for at least 8500 years. Recent archaeological discoveries revealed the remains of a prehistoric pile-dwelling settlement dating back to around 6000 BC, making it one of the oldest known lakeside settlements in Europe.

Following a path marked on the map, which supposedly led to the shore of Lake Ohrid.

Lake Ohrid covers 358 km², reaches a depth of 288 metres and contains around 55 km³ of water, making it one of Europe's most remarkable lakes.

A small ladybird, a little good luck and many kilometres still ahead of us.

Finally, we reached the shores of Lake Ohrid. Of its 87.5 km shoreline, approximately two-thirds belong to North Macedonia, while the remaining third lies in Albania.

The food disappeared almost as quickly as we unpacked it.

 

On the way back to Lin, we picked up an unexpected travelling companion.

Dating back to the 6th century, the ruins of the Early Christian Basilica of Lin still contain remarkable mosaic floors overlooking Lake Ohrid.

Blue Horse and Thunder patiently waiting for the next stage of the journey - Garmin Connect.

More than 200 species found in Lake Ohrid live nowhere else on Earth. The lake contains around 55 km³ of water, which is renewed remarkably slowly, taking approximately 70 years for a complete turnover. Its exceptionally clear waters can offer underwater visibility of more than 20 metres under favourable conditions.

Back on the motorcycles, riding through the sparsely populated eastern regions of Albania.

Nothing brightens a motorcyclist's day quite like a newly surfaced mountain road.

Northbound through the mountains of eastern Albania.

The scenery may have changed, but the wilderness continued.

 

After several hours on the road, a traditional Albanian lunch in Peshkopi was exactly what we needed before continuing towards the mountains.

Below, the Black Drin continues its journey from Lake Ohrid towards its confluence with the White Drin in northern Albania.

View towards Korab mountain range.

Focused.

We had prepared for gravel, but were rewarded with a beautifully paved mountain road instead.

Arriving to Radomirë.

Day 11: From  Korçë to Radomirë - 239 km.

Geocaches found (all received a visit by trackable items "Second Angel of peace", TBA8B55 and "Twin Star", TB33TN8):

- Kisha e Shën Ilia (Saint Elijah’s Church), GC68BV3

- Pogradec's Fortified Past: Castle Cache, GCAE1K5

- Lake Ohrid, GC1E16N

- Eight Boys Challenge, Mystery, GCAECJF, where I spotted the codes of trackable items "South East UK Mega 2024 SEM24 74jen and ECOBAKE TB", TBAWBJQ, "Travel Track Jen's Superlambanana", TB848KW and "Lackey Tag Allybobllyy Lackey Tag", TBAHVBW

#vacation #Balkan #motorcycle #geocaching

16950

Albania: Yearly Vacation - Albania - Roadside Repairs near Langarica Canyon

Seventeen days, two motorcycles, one destination. For this year's holiday, Nada and I headed to Albania, planning to explore its coastline from north to south before turning towards the mountains and making our way home through some of the country's most scenic landscapes.

After a relaxing day without motorcycles, it was time to leave the Albanian coast behind. We set off from Sarandë towards the interior, planning to visit Langarica Canyon and its famous thermal springs. The day, however, did not start entirely according to plan. Somewhere along the road, my Blue Horse ran over something sharp and the rear tyre began losing air.

Calling roadside assistance never even crossed my mind. After all, this was the Balkans, where problems often get solved much more simply than you would expect. As luck would have it, we were right next to a small roadside restaurant when I noticed the puncture. I asked around if anyone knew a tyre repair shop, and the response was immediate. We simply took a photo of the rear wheel and sent it to a local mechanic. About fifteen minutes later, he arrived from Përmet ready to help. We removed the wheel, and the two of us set off for his workshop in a classic Mazda 121. The repair was completed in no time and soon we were back in the village of Petran, fitting the wheel back onto the bike. Only then did I remember that it was Sunday. Considering the circumstances, the whole incident was resolved remarkably quickly, cheaply and without any stress.

With Blue Horse ready to continue, we finally headed into Langarica Canyon. Carved over thousands of years by the Langarica River, the canyon cuts deep through the limestone mountains, with vertical walls rising up to a hundred metres above the riverbed. Near its entrance stands the beautiful Ottoman-era Kadiu Bridge, alongside a group of mineral-rich thermal springs that attract visitors from all over Albania. We took the opportunity to enjoy a warm soak before walking deeper into the canyon itself. Surrounded by towering rock walls, clear water and unusual geological formations, it felt like stepping into another world. It was easily one of the most fascinating natural sights we encountered during the entire trip.

Back on the motorcycles, the repaired tyre continued to hold pressure perfectly, giving us confidence to carry on. Following the valley of the Vjosa River near the Greek border at Melissopetra, we eventually turned north and crossed the rolling hills of southeastern Albania. Our destination for the evening was Korçë, where we checked into our accommodation after another memorable day packed with unexpected adventures, impressive scenery and yet another reminder that travelling through Albania rarely goes exactly as planned.

Previous days of Albania Moto trip 2025: Day 9 - 16949, Day 8 - 16948, Day 7 - 16947, Day 6 - 16946, Day 5 - 16945, Day 4 - 16944, Day 3 - 16943, Day 2 - 16942, Day 1 - 16941.

The SH83 road carried us away from the coast and towards Albania's rugged interior.

Beneath rugged 1500-metre summits on the way to the Drino Valley.

 

We missed the turn for Langarica Canyon. Soon afterwards, this impressive bridge over the Vjosa River gave us a good reason to stop.

The Vjosa rises in Greece's Pindus Mountains and flows for around 270 km before reaching the Adriatic Sea north of Vlorë. One of Europe's last great wild rivers.

Although the river is dammed in Greece, the Vjosa flows freely throughout Albania, making it one of Europe's last great wild rivers.

Known as the Aoös - Αώος in Greece and the Vjosa in Albania, the river has linked cultures and trade routes for centuries.

 

Blue Horse and flat tyre.

The rear wheel removed and ready for a quick trip to the tyre shop in Përmet.

 

Our rescue vehicle turned out to be a mighty Mazda 121 Rally Edition. After a trip to the local tyre workshop, the puncture was patched, the wheel mounted back onto the motorcycle, and the Sunday rescue operation was successfully completed.

The historic Kadiut Bridge spans the Langarica River at the entrance to Langarica Canyon, providing one of the most picturesque views in the area.

The warm water made it very easy to stay in longer than planned.

Some of the thermal pools near Benjë remain pleasantly warm throughout the year, with water temperatures reaching over 30°C.

Kadiut Bridge, an Ottoman-era stone bridge whose name derives from the "Kadi" (Qadi), the Islamic judge who once administered justice in the region.

Following the Langarica River deeper into the canyon.

Tourists Nada and Tuši.

 

Langarica Canyon stretches for around 7 kilometres, with cliffs rising up to 150 metres above the river below.

 

The Langarica River has spent thousands of years carving its way through these limestone cliffs.

Straight up view.

 

The canyon may look dry and peaceful today, but after heavy rain the Langarica River can become a powerful force.

 

Steep canyon walls and a weak GPS signal are not the ideal combination for geocaching.

The warm water seems to appear everywhere. Numerous thermal springs emerge directly from the limestone, constantly replenishing the pools along the river - Garmin Connect.

The Vjosa basin is home to more than 1100 recorded species of plants and animals, making it one of the most biodiverse river systems in the Balkans.

Great day for riding.

Thunder and Blue Horse. And off course, Nada.

The bridge appears to have outlived its wooden deck, leaving only the supporting structure behind.

Remote mountains, difficult transport links and decades of isolation helped preserve the traditional character of the upper Vjosa Valley.

Nearly forty years of combined age, almost 200 horsepower between them, and still eager to explore the roads of the Balkans.

The Vjosa was already known to the ancient Greeks as Aoös more than two thousand years ago.

While we explored Albania on motorcycles, others relied on horsepower of a different kind.

Lean into the corner and enjoy the ride.

New asphalt and endless curves made this one of the most enjoyable stretches of the day.

You travel all the way to Albania, only to discover that they have a Kamnik too.

A roadside memorial commemorates a partisan attack carried out here on 6 July 1943 by the Tomorri Battalion and local volunteers from the surrounding mountain villages.

Our apartment was not quite ready yet, which left us with only one sensible option: burek and a cold beer in Korçë.

The Resurrection Cathedral, completed in 1995, reflects the return of religious freedom to Albania following the collapse of the communist regime.

Living the royal lifestyle, one boot of beer at a time. Korçë is widely regarded as the birthplace of Albanian beer, thanks to the famous Birra Korça brewery founded in 1928.

 

For centuries, merchants arriving from Greece, Macedonia and the Albanian interior traded their goods in the streets of Korçë's Old Bazaar. Established about 500 years ago, it is composed of old Ottoman and Roman architectonic style buildings which for centuries were used as shops, guesthouses or khans.

 

Although we were still full from dinner, we simply had to try lakror, Korçë's traditional specialty. Unlike a pizza, the filling is enclosed between layers of dough and baked until golden and crispy on both sides. On the way back to our accommodation, we made one final stop to admire the Xhamia e Iljaz Mirahorit - Mirahori Mosque from the outside, one of the oldest and most important Ottoman-era monuments in Korçë - Garmin Connect.

Day 10: From Sarandë to Korçë - 257 km.

Geocaches found (all received a visit by trackable items "Second Angel of peace", TBA8B55 and "Twin Star", TB33TN8):

- Ura e Petranit/ Brug in Petran/ Petran Bridge, GCB78FN

- Banjat e Bënjës, Virtual, GCAJHXN

- Termale Canyon, GC6WF1R

- Vjosa, GC8AEBZ

- Katedralja Ortodokse "Ringjallja e Krishtit", Virtual, GCAJHTK

#vacation #Balkan #motorcycle #geocaching