Tuši's blog

Albania / Montenegro: Yearly Vacation - Albania - Maja e Rosit

Seventeen days, two motorcycles, one destination. For this year's holiday, Nada and I headed to Albania, planning to explore its coastline from north to south before turning towards the mountains and making our way home through some of the country's most scenic landscapes.

Day 13 was another day without motorcycles. I decided to climb the nearby Maja e Rosit (Rosni Peak), while Nada opted for a much more relaxed schedule. Despite our different plans, we both agreed that a break from riding was exactly what we needed.

For me, the day was wonderfully simple. After breakfast, I stepped outside our accommodation in Kukaj and started walking. The trail began gently, winding through the forests and pastures, but before long it reared up and began gaining height in earnest.

Reaching Stani i Ramës, already at around 1700 metres above sea level, felt like a significant milestone. By then, nearly half of the elevation gain was behind me. The scenery became increasingly alpine, but so did the challenges. Recent snowfall still lingered on the upper slopes, leaving patches of snow across the trail and making progress slower and more demanding. Higher up, a thick layer of fog settled over the mountain. Any hopes of enjoying wide panoramas gradually disappeared behind a veil of cloud, and navigation required a little more attention than usual. Nevertheless, the route remained clear enough, and after a steady climb I eventually reached the summit of Maja e Rosit, 2525 m.

Unfortunately, the summit was completely enveloped in fog. Instead of the famous views over the Accursed Mountains (Bjeshkët e Nemuna, Prokletije / Проклетије) and the surrounding peaks of the Albanian Alps, there was little more than a few metres of visibility in every direction.

Since there was nothing to see from the top, I did not linger for long. After a brief stay on the summit, I turned around and followed the same route back down towards the valley - Garmin Connect.

Not every mountain rewards its visitors with spectacular views. Sometimes reaching the summit itself is enough. Even hidden behind fog, Maja e Rosit still provided a memorable day in the mountains and a welcome break from life on two wheels.

Previous days of Albania Moto trip 2025: Day 12 - 16952, Day 11 - 16951, Day 10 - 16950, Day 9 - 16949, Day 8 - 16948, Day 7 - 16947, Day 6 - 16946, Day 5 - 16945, Day 4 - 16944, Day 3 - 16943, Day 2 - 16942, Day 1 - 16941.

On the summit of Rosni vrh / Maja e Rosit, 2525 m, the border peak of Montenegro and Albania. The last part of the trail runs in Montenegro.

And this was pretty much the extent of the spectacular views from the summit.

Every now and then, the fog opened just enough to reveal a small part of the landscape.

The origin of the name "Accursed Mountains" is disputed. According to one local legend, the devil escaped from hell and created the jagged glacial karsts in a single day of mischief. Others say a woman cursed the mountains while she and her children trekked through them on a scorching-hot day and could not find any water. A third legend claims Slavic soldiers gave the mountains their name as they struggled to march through them. Both the Albanian (Bjeshkët e Nemuna) and Serbo-Croatian (Prokletije) names mean "The Accursed Mountains".

The Accursed Mountains, the southernmost part of the Dinaric Alps, stretch more than 60 kilometres from Lake Skadar along the Montenegrin–Albanian border in the southwest to Kosovo in the northeast.

Returning through Stani i Ramës, a traditional shepherd settlement surrounded by alpine meadows high above the Valbonë Valley.

The Accursed Mountains range was formed by the folding resulting from the collision of the African and Eurasian plates. Nowhere in the Balkans have glaciers left so much evidence of erosion. After the Alps, these mountains are the most glaciated in Europe south of the Scandinavian ice sheet.

Only on the way back did I notice the sign.

As usual, the mountain waited until I was heading down before revealing a few of its views.

Just under six hours after leaving, I returned to Kukaj with tired legs and no regrets.

A comfortable base in Kukaj, made even better by the outstanding home-cooked food.

Nina, the mountain artist.

Once the stove was lit, the room became wonderfully warm. Remaining awake became much harder.

Day 13: From Valbonë to Valbonë - 13 km.

#vacation #Balkan #hiking

Albania / North Macedonia: Yearly Vacation - Albania - Mount Korab

The alarm went off long before sunrise. At 5 a.m., equipped with a headlamp and a warm layer of clothing, I set off from Radomirë towards Mount Korab, the highest mountain in both Albania and North Macedonia. While the village was still asleep, I began searching for the correct trail in the darkness. Fortunately, once I found it, navigation became straightforward.

Rather than taking the shortest route, I chose a longer and more scenic approach. Before long, I was joined by an unexpected hiking companion: a limping local dog who seemed determined to accompany me all the way to the summit. Together, we made steady progress through the quiet mountain landscape. In the cold morning air there was no sign of other hikers, only the crunch of footsteps and the occasional sound of wildlife waking up.

As the first rays of sunlight reached the surrounding peaks, the views became increasingly impressive. Shortly below the summit, the trail crossed into North Macedonia, following the border ridge towards the highest point. Roughly four hours after leaving Radomirë, I reached the summit of Mount Korab.

The weather could hardly have been better. Visibility extended across countless mountain ranges in both countries, providing some of the finest views of the entire trip. I spent plenty of time taking photographs, admired the panorama, and even managed to find the summit geocache before beginning the descent. My four-legged companion, who had accompanied me the entire way, was still by my side as we headed back towards the valley.

On the way down, the mountains slowly became busier. A few hikers appeared on the trail, and several herds of goats provided additional company as we descended through the high pastures back towards Radomirë.

While I was busy climbing Albania's highest mountain, Nada enjoyed a much more relaxed start to the day. By the time I returned from the summit, she had already packed her belongings, mounted her motorcycle and set off towards our next destination. For the remainder of the day, we would each ride our own route, with me gradually trying to catch up.

Soon I climbed back onto Blue Horse and headed north. The road first led through Kukës, where the confluence of the Black Drin and White Drin rivers provided another interesting stop. From there, the route continued through the mountains towards Krumë, where I paused for a well-deserved lunch.

The final destination for the day was the famous Valbona Valley. By late afternoon I reached Valbonë, where Nada had already arrived. After the obligatory reunion beer, we continued along a gravel road towards our accommodation in the small hamlet of Kukaj. There, surrounded by the spectacular peaks of the Albanian Alps, we finally met up with the rest of the CHERA Hiking group.

It had been a day of contrasts: a solitary sunrise ascent of Albania's highest mountain, a loyal canine hiking partner, hundreds of kilometres of riding through northern Albania and, finally, a reunion with friends in one of the country's most beautiful mountain valleys.

Previous days of Albania Moto trip 2025: Day 11 - 16951, Day 10 - 16950, Day 9 - 16949, Day 8 - 16948, Day 7 - 16947, Day 6 - 16946, Day 5 - 16945, Day 4 - 16944, Day 3 - 16943, Day 2 - 16942, Day 1 - 16941.

After an hour on the trail, the first light of day finally appeared above the mountains.

Not a soul in sight, just a peaceful mountain morning.

We started as strangers and finished as hiking companions, sharing both the trail and my packed lunch from the hotel.

A frozen pond was all the proof we needed that the morning in the Korab Mountains was genuinely cold.

Mount Korab (Albanian: Maja e Korabit or Mali i Korabit; Macedonian: Голем Кораб / Golem Korab), rising to 2764 metres, is the highest peak of both Albania and North Macedonia. The summit forms part of the border between the two countries and ranks among the highest mountains of the Balkan Peninsula.

Korab means "ship" in Macedonian.

The first rays of sunlight had already reached the highest peaks, while the valley below was still cold and shadowed.

The rugged peaks of the Korab range rise between the valleys of the Black Drin and Radika, forming the natural border between Albania and North Macedonia.

The Korab range contains more than a dozen peaks above 2500 metres, making it one of the highest and most rugged mountain regions in the Balkans.

In clear weather and with good trail markings, navigation was pleasantly straightforward.

Geographically, the Korab mountain range extends 40 km.

Despite its elevation, the upper slopes of Mount Korab contain surprisingly broad high-altitude meadows shaped by ancient glaciers.

Recent snowfall had left a surprising amount of snow on the upper slopes of Mount Korab.

Panorama from the border between Albania and North Macedonia.

A thick layer of fog filled the Macedonian valleys while the highest peaks remained in the sunshine.

Looking across a landscape filled with future adventures.

The climb had been long, and even my loyal hiking partner appreciated a short break beneath the summit.

Unlike Mont Blanc, whose summit is claimed by both France and Italy, the summit of Mount Korab clearly marks the border between Albania and North Macedonia.

Four hours after leaving Radomirë, I finally reached the summit of Mount Korab. Time for the obligatory selfie.

View to Albania and Radomirë.

From the summit of Korab, the mountains seem to continue all the way to the horizon.

Standing on Mount Korab, you are on one of the most isolated major summits in the Balkans. The nearest higher peak lies over 230 kilometres away in Bulgaria, Bayuvi Dupki, 2824 m.

One last look towards North Macedonia before beginning the descent.

Looking back at the morning's achievement while enjoying the much milder temperatures in the valley.

The Korab Mountains are home to brown bears, wolves and even the critically endangered Balkan lynx, although meeting any of them is far less likely than meeting a friendly mountain dog.

Long before hikers arrived, these slopes belonged to shepherds and their goats.

One last greeting to the local goats before the trail finally delivered me back to Radomirë after a 20 km day on the mountain - Garmin Connect.

Near Kukës, the Black Drin and White Drin rivers merge to form the Drin, Albania's longest river. The confluence now lies within the vast Fierza Reservoir, created by the construction of the hydroelectric dam. Water levels were noticeably low during our October visit, revealing large stretches of shoreline normally hidden beneath the lake.

After crossing the White Drin, the road continues through the mountains towards Valbonë Valley in the heart of the Albanian Alps.

The White Drin carries an average of around 66 cubic metres of water per second before joining the Black Drin near Kukës.

The confluence. The hydroelectric dam produces around 1.3 TWh of electricity annually, making it one of Albania's most important energy facilities. Installed power is 500 MW.