Tuši

Tuši's blog

Tuesday, December 24, 2024

16658

Cyprus / Northern Cyprus: Cyprus - Day 5 - Nicosia, Sinner's bridge, Capo Greco and Love Bridge


On our fifth day, we set out to explore the divided capital of Nicosia. We began on the Turkish side (north of the Green Line), wandering through historic landmarks such as Büyük Han - a beautifully restored Ottoman-era inn—along with Haydar Pasha Mosque and the charming Kumarcılar Han (also known as the Gambler's Inn). The northern part of the city has a distinct atmosphere, with narrow streets, local shops, and a slower pace.

After soaking in the sights, we crossed back over the UN-controlled buffer zone - often referred to as "no man’s land"—into the southern part of the city. Altogether, we covered around 8 km on foot (Garmin Connect) before calling it a day in Nicosia.

Later, we got back into our trusty Nissan Micra and headed east. Our first stop was Sinner's Bridge, and from there we continued toward the southeastern tip of Cyprus, arriving at Cape Greco. While much of the area is open to visitors, some sections are restricted due to the presence of nearby military installations, as well as for environmental protection and safety reasons - especially along the steep coastal cliffs. Despite this, we managed to hike up a nearby hill, which rewarded us with stunning panoramic views of the cape and the deep blue Mediterranean stretching into the distance.

On the way back to our apartment, we stopped at the nearby Love Bridge, a striking natural rock formation known for its unique shape and picturesque setting. To end the day, we returned to our apartment just south of Oroklini, where we relaxed and enjoyed a well-earned dinner after another full day of exploring.

Previous days of our vacation to Cyprus: Day 4 - 16657, Day 3 - 16656, Day 2 - 16655, Day 1 - 16654.

 
After the first today's geocache we moved on to Büyük Han. Since we were quite early, it wasn't crowded.

One of the highlights of the northern part of Nicosia is Büyük Han (also known as the Great Inn). Built by the Ottomans in 1572, it is the largest caravanserai on the island and widely regarded as one of the finest historical buildings in Cyprus.

According to historical records, the Büyük Han was built in 1572 under the auspices of Muzaffer Pasha, the first Ottoman governor of Cyprus, and was modelled after Koza Han in Bursa.

 
Lady Nada also has her shop here.

 
Since its restoration, the Evkaf Administration has mandated in tenancy agreements that all products sold within Büyük Han are manufactured by the tenants themselves and has placed a ban on selling externally produced items. As such, shops in the caravanserai sell traditional Cypriot handicrafts and most tenants are women that produce such handicrafts. The Evkaf Administration carries out checks to ensure that the tenants comply with the terms of the tenancy agreement, and warns tenants if any violations are detected.

Our mother Earth is flat.

Arasta Street evolved into the main shopping and social hub of old Nicosia - a lively market street, once known for its shoe and textile shops.

  
Haydar Pasha Mosque - the building was constructed in the 14th century, during the Frankish rule of the island, and named St. Catherine's Church. Upon the conquest of Nicosia by the Ottomans in 1570, it was converted to a mosque. It was also historically called "Ağalar Camisi", meaning "the Mosque of the Lords", as it was frequented by the Turkish local aristocracy, who lived in its vicinity.

Kuzey Kıbrıs Türk Cumhuriyeti Bayrağı - The flag of the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus is based on the flag of Turkey, with the colors reversed and two additional horizontal red stripes at the top and bottom. 

 
Another interesting stop was Kumarcılar Han (Gambler's Inn), a smaller and more modest caravanserai dating back to the late 17th century. Like many inns of its kind, it is built around an open-air courtyard surrounded by a two-storey structure - where the upper rooms once accommodated travelers, while the ground floor was used for their animals and goods.

Nazar.

 
Streets of Kuzey Lefkoşa - North Nicosia.

 
We walked towards our next stop, Notre Dame de Tyre - Armenian Church.

Armenian church was originally built in 1116 by the King of Jerusalem Baldwin de Buillon and then destroyed by the strong earthquake in 1303.

In 1570, following the conquest of Nicosia by the Ottomans, the church and the keeping of the Paphos Gate were granted to the Armenians by Sultan Selim II.

 
Tucked inside the old city walls of Nicosia, Notre Dame de Tyre is a quiet gem often overlooked by visitors.

 
Back on the streets.

 
Nicosia is the world's only divided capital, serving as the seat of both the Republic of Cyprus in the south and the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus in the north. You can cross the border only at dedicated border crossings.

Behind these steel doors lie the abandoned homes of Nicosia's Green Line, left empty since 1974 when the city was divided, their silent streets and shuttered windows standing as a haunting reminder of lives uprooted and a city split in two.

 
After the division of Nicosia in 1974, the residents of the Green Line were forced to leave their homes. Greek Cypriots moved to the southern part of the city or elsewhere in the Republic of Cyprus, while Turkish Cypriots resettled in the northern part or other towns in the north, leaving behind the abandoned streets and shuttered houses that still mark the buffer zone today.

The Green Line gets its name from the green ink a UN officer used in 1964 to mark the ceasefire boundary dividing Nicosia.

 
The UN forces in Cyprus, known as UNFICYP (United Nations Peacekeeping Force in Cyprus), have been stationed on the island since 1964 - over 60 years now. Originally intended as a temporary mission, it became a long-term presence following the division of the island after the 1974 conflict.

 
On Turkish side they drink Efes.

 
The Walls of Nicosia, also known as the Venetian Walls, are a series of defensive walls which surround Nicosia. The first city walls were built in the Middle Ages, but they were completely rebuilt in the mid-16th century by the Republic of Venice during their war with the Ottoman Empire. The walls are still largely intact, and are among the best preserved Renaissance fortifications in the Eastern Mediterranean.

Looking for a restaurant. This isn't it.

 
Found one and we tasted some local stuff.

We returned back to the EU part of the country and the city. On the photo Ayios Savvas Church.

 
Ömeriye Mosque and Church of St. Barnabas and St. Makarios.

 
We also have windows like this in Tržič, and we call them firbc okn - meaning peeping windows.

There it is, Archbishop's Palace - Αρχιεπισκοπικό Μέγαρο - Başpiskoposluk Sarayı.

Closed for public.

Cadillac Fleetwood Sixty Special and Mercedes-Benz 600 Grosser cars, vehicles of president Makarios III.

Tourist in town.

  
Even in Nicosia's walled city, blue doors and shutters brighten the narrow streets, a traditional Mediterranean touch believed to ward off evil spirits while adding a cheerful contrast to the pale historic walls.

 
Nature in the city.

 
Green line from the south.

 
Several attempts to reunify Cyprus have failed - Turkish Cypriots and Greek Cypriots disagree on territory, governance, and property, leaving the Green Line in place for decades. So the border remains.

Our city walk done, we escaped to the eastern shores, where the Mediterranean stretched endlessly before us.

Sparkling waters of Cyprus.

Kamara tou Koraka, also known as Sinner's Bridge, is a striking natural sea arch within Cape Greco National Forest Park. Formed over millennia by the relentless erosion of limestone cliffs, the arch spans the sparkling Mediterranean waters. Its local name, Arch of the Crow, reflects Greek tradition, while the English name, Sinner's Bridge, comes from a legend warning that crossing it could be perilous for sinners.

Calm sea and rugged coast.

 
Finally a selfie.

Parking for rental cars with red license plates.

Our Micra had the most off-road experience.

View to Cape Greco from nearby hill - the very end of the cape itself is fenced off and inaccessible to visitors because of a government/military installation or restricted zone, which prevents hikers from reaching the absolute tip.

 
The Monument of Peace sits on top of Cape Greco.

Dive into the mysterious sea caves of Cape Greco - where crystal waters hide legends of ancient seamonsters beneath the waves.

 
2 sea monsters on land.

To Filiko Teras (Greek for "the friendly monster") is the name given by local fishermen to a supposed sea creature that is said to inhabit this waters.

If you look really good, you can see the creature.

This is how we react, when we saw the To Filiko Teras.

Last stop of the day, natural arch called Love bridge.

A local belief holds that if couples kiss in the middle of the arch and make a wish, it will come true.

It will not stand here forever, but neither will we.

The waters nearby are very clear (up to ~25-30 m visibility) and a great place for snorkelling, freediving and scuba dives.

Will he jump or not?

Setting up the TV for some music.

 
Christmas Eve dinner.

Geocaches found (all received a visit by trackable items "Second Angel of peace", TBA8B55, "Ojstrica (2350 m) - ti moje kraljestvo / you my kingdom...", TB8MHFG and "Twin Star", TB33TN8):
- Road Safety Park, Mystery, GCAK3VR
- Büyük Han Resurrected, GC9RJVG
- * Cyprus Holiday * Διακοπές στην Κύπρο *, Letterbox Hybrid, GCAMMHY
- Edge Of Cyprus - Cape Greco, GC58BCE
- Rocks around the Masts or Ghost Picnic Site, GCA152
- Sea Caves, GCQWYY
- Seamonster Caves, EarthCache, GC67HEN
- Love Bridge Ayia Napa, EarthCache, GC57ED3