Tuši's blog

Albania: Yearly Vacation - Albania - Stubbornness Pays Off

Seventeen days, two motorcycles, one destination. For this year's holiday, Nada and I headed to Albania, planning to explore its coastline from north to south before turning towards the mountains and making our way home through some of the country's most scenic landscapes.

After several days along the Adriatic and Ionian coasts, it was time to head inland again. We set our alarms for 8 a.m., packed the motorcycles and left our apartment in Vlorë behind. The route initially followed the Shushicë River valley towards the small town of Kotë, where a local bakery provided us with breakfast and the energy needed for the day ahead.

Our plan was simple enough. Road SH76 looked like the most logical connection between Vlorë and Tepelenë when viewed on a map. As it turned out, maps can be optimistic. After Kotë, the asphalt became progressively narrower for another fifteen kilometres before suddenly giving way to gravel. What followed was nearly twenty kilometres of increasingly rough terrain. The track became steeper, rockier and far more challenging than we had expected. It would have been perfect fun on enduro motorcycles. On our road bikes, it was something else entirely.

Turning back was never seriously considered. Fuelled by breakfast and a healthy dose of stubbornness, we continued along the mountainside high above the Vjosa River, with the peaks of Maja e Këndrevicës and Maja e Tartarit dominating the surrounding landscape. Slow progress eventually brought us to the village of Sinanaj, where the welcome sight of asphalt once again appeared beneath our wheels.

Before long we rolled into Tepelenë, where a well-deserved cold beer marked the end of the off-road adventure. From there the journey became significantly easier and faster. Our next stop was Gjirokastër, one of Albania's most beautiful historic towns. We explored the impressive hilltop castle, wandered through the old streets and enjoyed a relaxing lunch while looking out over the valley below.

In the afternoon we continued south towards Sarandë, making one final stop at the famous Blue Eye, Syri i Kaltër. The crystal-clear spring, with its intense shades of blue and remarkable clarity, proved to be the perfect place to pause before the final kilometres of the day.

As the sun slowly sank lower over southern Albania, we completed the ride to Sarandë - Garmin Connect. Another day had passed, bringing a mixture of unexpected roads, mountain scenery, historic landmarks and natural wonders. It was exactly the kind of adventure we had hoped to find when setting out for Albania, and yet another memorable chapter in a journey that continued to exceed expectations.

Previous days of Albania Moto trip 2025: Day 7 - 16947, Day 6 - 16946, Day 5 - 16945, Day 4 - 16944, Day 3 - 16943, Day 2 - 16942, Day 1 - 16941.

The monumental arch at Drashovicë commemorates two important chapters of Albanian history. The year 1920 refers to the Vlora War, when Albanian fighters battled Italian occupation forces, while 1943 marks the famous Battle of Drashovica against German troops during World War II. Standing beside the Shushicë River, the monument links two generations who fought for the country's freedom on the very same ground.

Local traffic.

The peaceful Shushicë Valley offered beautiful scenery and easy riding.

Breakfast, Albanian style. A freshly baked burek and an ice-cold Coca-Cola in Kotë before setting off into the unknown.

Let the fun begin.

Breakfast was quickly taken care of by the roadside. Looking at the rough track ahead, common sense suggested turning around. Stubbornness had other ideas.

High above the Vjosa, one of the continent's last great untamed rivers, winding its way through the mountains towards the Adriatic.

The gravel became rougher, the climbs steeper and the road narrower with every kilometre.

SH76 looked perfectly reasonable on the map. Out here, it felt more like an enduro trail.

Dust, loose stones and plenty of concentration. Our road bikes were well outside their comfort zone.

Progress was slow, but the scenery more than made up for it.

Not exactly what we had planned for the day, but these unexpected detours often become the best memories.

Not all parts were rough.

The track seemed endless. Every corner promised the return of asphalt, yet another stretch of gravel always waited beyond it.

According to the map, this was a road. According to our motorcycles, that claim was highly questionable.

After kilometres of rough gravel and almost no traffic, meeting a local on a donkey was a welcome sign that civilisation was finally getting closer.

Judging by her smile, Nada had missed asphalt more than she was willing to admit.

A flock of sheep brought our progress to a temporary halt. For a while, we simply became part of the convoy.

Mountain traffic comes in many forms.

Rush hour in rural Albania.

Finally, beer time in Tepelenë.

Our next stop was the imposing Gjirokastër Fortress, one of the largest castles in the Balkans.

High above the UNESCO-listed city of Gjirokastër, the fortress has witnessed empires, wars and centuries of Albanian history.

A view from Gjirokastër Fortress towards Maja e Lëlucit, 2155 m.

Gjirokastër lies in the Drino Valley and is one of Albania's most historic cities. Known as the "Stone City" for its distinctive slate-roofed houses, it is also the birthplace of former Albanian leader Enver Hoxha and the internationally acclaimed writer Ismail Kadare.

Above the fortress.

Standing beside an Italian Fiat L6/40 light tank beneath the Monument of the People's Power. Introduced in 1940, the small two-man tank was used by Italian forces during World War II and was already considered outdated by the standards of the time. Today, it forms part of the military collection inside Gjirokastër Fortress, alongside monuments celebrating Albania's turbulent 20th-century history.

Gjirokastër Castle is one of the most important historical monuments in Albania and represents a significant example of military architecture in the Balkans.

At first glance, it is just another aircraft displayed inside Gjirokastër Fortress. Yet this Lockheed T-33 Shooting Star carries one of the Cold War's most intriguing stories. In December 1957, the American jet unexpectedly landed in communist Albania, but the circumstances remain disputed to this day. According to the United States, the pilot was forced off course by bad weather and low fuel. The Albanian version claimed the aircraft had been intercepted and compelled to land. More than half a century later, the aircraft still stands as a reminder that history can be told in more than one way, earning it the nickname "The Plane with Two Tales."

The clock was erected by Ali Pasha of Tepelena in the 19th century.

Gjirokastër Castle traces its origins back to the 12th and 13th centuries, although most of the fortress seen today was expanded during the rule of Ali Pasha of Ioannina in the early 19th century. Over the centuries, the city was known as Argyrokastro to the Greeks and Ergiri during Ottoman rule.

According to local legend, Princess Argjiro was the sister of a ruler from the Zenebishi family. When Ottoman forces captured the castle in the 15th century, she refused to surrender and leapt from the fortress walls with her infant child in her arms. Argjiro died in the fall, but the child miraculously survived. Local folklore claims that milk flowed from the rocks below the castle to feed the baby, while the white limestone deposits beneath the cliffs are said to be the lasting evidence of this miracle. Whether history or myth, the story remains one of the most famous legends of Gjirokastër.

The stage of Gjirokastër Castle is best known as the home of Albania's National Folklore Festival, where musicians, singers and dancers have performed beneath the fortress walls for decades. Since Nada has recently joined a local theatre group, stepping onto this historic stage felt like a natural fit.

Tourists Nada and Tuši.

After we found the geocache it was time for proper lunch - Garmin Connect.

A selfie from the saddle before we headed back towards seaside.

The fertile Drino Valley beneath us, framed by mountain ridges that have guarded this corner of Albania for centuries.

Before reaching the famous Blue Eye, visitors cross a dam on the Bistricë River.

The entrance fee is charged per vehicle, so economics won the argument. The last kilometres to the Blue Eye were completed on a single motorcycle.

The Blue Eye (Syri i Kaltër) is one of Albania's most remarkable natural wonders. This powerful karst spring forms the source of the Bistricë River, with an astonishing discharge of around 18,400 litres of crystal-clear water every second. Divers have explored the vertical shaft to depths exceeding 50 metres without reaching the bottom, and the true depth remains unknown. The water emerges at a constant temperature of around 10-12°C throughout the year, creating the deep blue centre that gives the spring its name.

Protected as a natural monument since 1996, the Blue Eye lies hidden beneath a canopy of ancient plane trees and oaks, giving the spring an almost magical atmosphere - Garmin Connect.