On our fifth day, we set out to explore the divided capital of
Nicosia. We began on the
Turkish side (north of the Green Line), wandering through historic landmarks such as
Büyük Han - a beautifully restored Ottoman-era inn—along with
Haydar Pasha Mosque and the charming
Kumarcılar Han (also known as the Gambler's Inn). The northern part of the city has a distinct atmosphere, with narrow streets, local shops, and a slower pace.
After soaking in the sights, we crossed back over the
UN-controlled buffer zone - often referred to as "no man’s land"—into the southern part of the city. Altogether, we covered around 8 km on foot (
Garmin Connect) before calling it a day in Nicosia.
Later, we got back into our trusty
Nissan Micra and headed east. Our first stop was Sinner's Bridge, and from there we continued toward the southeastern tip of
Cyprus, arriving at
Cape Greco. While much of the area is open to visitors, some sections are restricted due to the presence of nearby military installations, as well as for environmental protection and safety reasons - especially along the steep coastal cliffs. Despite this, we managed to hike up a nearby hill, which rewarded us with stunning panoramic views of the cape and the deep blue
Mediterranean stretching into the distance.
On the way back to our apartment, we stopped at the nearby Love Bridge, a striking natural rock formation known for its unique shape and picturesque setting. To end the day, we returned to our apartment just south of
Oroklini, where we relaxed and enjoyed a well-earned dinner after another full day of exploring.
After the first today's geocache we moved on to Büyük Han. Since we were quite early, it wasn't crowded.  |
| According to historical records, the Büyük Han was built in 1572 under the auspices of Muzaffer Pasha, the first Ottoman governor of Cyprus, and was modelled after Koza Han in Bursa. |
Lady Nada also has her shop here.
Since its restoration, the Evkaf Administration has mandated in tenancy agreements that all products sold within Büyük Han are manufactured by the tenants themselves and has placed a ban on selling externally produced items. As such, shops in the caravanserai sell traditional Cypriot handicrafts and most tenants are women that produce such handicrafts. The Evkaf Administration carries out checks to ensure that the tenants comply with the terms of the tenancy agreement, and warns tenants if any violations are detected.  |
| Our mother Earth is flat. |
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| Arasta Street evolved into the main shopping and social hub of old Nicosia - a lively market street, once known for its shoe and textile shops. |
Haydar Pasha Mosque - the building was constructed in the 14th century, during the Frankish rule of the island, and named St. Catherine's Church. Upon the conquest of Nicosia by the Ottomans in 1570, it was converted to a mosque. It was also historically called "Ağalar Camisi", meaning "the Mosque of the Lords", as it was frequented by the Turkish local aristocracy, who lived in its vicinity.  |
| Kuzey Kıbrıs Türk Cumhuriyeti Bayrağı - The flag of the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus is based on the flag of Turkey, with the colors reversed and two additional horizontal red stripes at the top and bottom. |
Another interesting stop was Kumarcılar Han (Gambler's Inn), a smaller and more modest caravanserai dating back to the late 17th century. Like many inns of its kind, it is built around an open-air courtyard surrounded by a two-storey structure - where the upper rooms once accommodated travelers, while the ground floor was used for their animals and goods. Back on the streets.
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| Behind these steel doors lie the abandoned homes of Nicosia's Green Line, left empty since 1974 when the city was divided, their silent streets and shuttered windows standing as a haunting reminder of lives uprooted and a city split in two. |
After the division of Nicosia in 1974, the residents of the Green Line were forced to leave their homes. Greek Cypriots moved to the southern part of the city or elsewhere in the Republic of Cyprus, while Turkish Cypriots resettled in the northern part or other towns in the north, leaving behind the abandoned streets and shuttered houses that still mark the buffer zone today.  |
| The Green Line gets its name from the green ink a UN officer used in 1964 to mark the ceasefire boundary dividing Nicosia. |
The UN forces in Cyprus, known as UNFICYP (United Nations Peacekeeping Force in Cyprus), have been stationed on the island since 1964 - over 60 years now. Originally intended as a temporary mission, it became a long-term presence following the division of the island after the 1974 conflict. On Turkish side they drink Efes.  |
| Looking for a restaurant. This isn't it. |
Found one and we tasted some local stuff.
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| We returned back to the EU part of the country and the city. On the photo Ayios Savvas Church. |
We also have windows like this in Tržič, and we call them firbc okn - meaning peeping windows.  |
| Closed for public. |
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| Tourist in town. |
Even in Nicosia's walled city, blue doors and shutters brighten the narrow streets, a traditional Mediterranean touch believed to ward off evil spirits while adding a cheerful contrast to the pale historic walls.
Nature in the city.
Green line from the south.
Several attempts to reunify Cyprus have failed - Turkish Cypriots and Greek Cypriots disagree on territory, governance, and property, leaving the Green Line in place for decades. So the border remains.  |
| Our city walk done, we escaped to the eastern shores, where the Mediterranean stretched endlessly before us. |
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| Kamara tou Koraka, also known as Sinner's Bridge, is a striking natural sea arch within Cape Greco National Forest Park. Formed over millennia by the relentless erosion of limestone cliffs, the arch spans the sparkling Mediterranean waters. Its local name, Arch of the Crow, reflects Greek tradition, while the English name, Sinner's Bridge, comes from a legend warning that crossing it could be perilous for sinners. |
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| Calm sea and rugged coast. |
Finally a selfie.
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| Parking for rental cars with red license plates. |
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| Our Micra had the most off-road experience. |
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| View to Cape Greco from nearby hill - the very end of the cape itself is fenced off and inaccessible to visitors because of a government/military installation or restricted zone, which prevents hikers from reaching the absolute tip. |
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| Dive into the mysterious sea caves of Cape Greco - where crystal waters hide legends of ancient seamonsters beneath the waves. |
2 sea monsters on land.
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| To Filiko Teras (Greek for "the friendly monster") is the name given by local fishermen to a supposed sea creature that is said to inhabit this waters. |
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| If you look really good, you can see the creature. |
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| This is how we react, when we saw the To Filiko Teras. |
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| Last stop of the day, natural arch called Love bridge. |
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| A local belief holds that if couples kiss in the middle of the arch and make a wish, it will come true. |
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| It will not stand here forever, but neither will we. |
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| The waters nearby are very clear (up to ~25-30 m visibility) and a great place for snorkelling, freediving and scuba dives. |
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| Will he jump or not? |
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| Setting up the TV for some music. |
Christmas Eve dinner.
Geocaches found (all received a visit by trackable items "Second Angel of peace",
TBA8B55, "Ojstrica (2350 m) - ti moje kraljestvo / you my kingdom...",
TB8MHFG and "Twin Star",
TB33TN8):
- Road Safety Park, Mystery,
GCAK3VR- * Cyprus Holiday * Διακοπές στην Κύπρο *, Letterbox Hybrid,
GCAMMHY- Edge Of Cyprus - Cape Greco,
GC58BCE- Rocks around the Masts or Ghost Picnic Site,
GCA152- Seamonster Caves, EarthCache,
GC67HEN- Love Bridge Ayia Napa, EarthCache,
GC57ED3
